Collection: Gawthorpe Textiles Collection

Collection-level records:

• Collection history (Collection development policy)

  The ‘core collection’ of approximately 11,000 was amassed by and/or under the influence of the Collection’s founder, Rachel Kay-Shuttleworth (1886-1967). Rachel was a prolific maker, particularly of lace and embroidery, and many of the items within the Collection were made by Rachel herself. She was also a keen traveller and together with donations from family and friends, amassed textiles from across the globe. Rachel’s vision was to create a craft house, a place of learning where traditional craft skills were kept alive. As early as 1912 she realised that she needed examples to develop her teaching. She therefore embarked on a lifelong passion for collecting examples from around the world to be used as teaching aids.

  Her collection was created, not through wealth, but through donations from her far reaching networks and friendships. Her value system was different from that of many others and her model of collecting (and sharing) was highly personal.

  Following Rachel’s death in 1967, the Collection was continued by the Trustees, and the Collection now stands at approximately 30,000 items. Artefacts range from the highly functional to the finest decorative or ceremonial pieces. Spanning five centuries, covering a broad range of techniques and originating from across the globe, this collection speaks as much about cultural, social and personal histories as it does about textile craft.

  There are a number of key donors who have contributed to the collection, primarily friends and family members. Those of note include Maisie Currie, the Shuttleworth and Kay families, Mrs Shetliffe, Eleanor Countess Castle-Stewart, Mrs Lowther-Bouch, Mrs R Sagar, Annie Schofield Clegg, Joan Drew, Hilda Ashworth, Lady Daniel, Sybil Welsh, Lady Orlave Baden-Powell, Mrs Morse, the Barton family, Francis Kay, Margaret Foster and Beryl Dean.

  Key acquisitions during Rachel’s lifetime were the Morton bequest (fabric samples), GF Purchas bequest (ecclesiastical embroidery), Mrs L F Day collection (whitework and embroidery). Other key items include the Wessex work embroidery and the Battle of Britain lace panel (acquired in 2015).

  There have been no major changes in the focus of the collection over its lifetime, though the  collecting policy was informal following Rachel’s death. This has resulted in a degree of duplication. The current policy following a review in 2012 therefore returns to the original focus of the collection, following Rachel’s themes including representing different textile techniques and levels of craftsmanship. Whilst Shuttleworth family material is collected, it is reactive, rather than proactive, to add context to the collection.

  Source: Collection development policy

  Date: 2017

  Licence: CC BY-NC

• Collection overview (Collection development policy)

  The current collection is in excess of 30,000 items. Key aspects within the collection are set out below:

  Embroidery

  Spanning from the 16th to 20th century, includes patchwork, applique, quilting and cording, samplers, white and black work, Ecclesiastical, crewel, cross stitch, Leek, canvas, Berlin woolwork, pulled and drawn thread work.

  Some examples of note:

  • A double sided votive offering of St Aloysius Gonzaga embroidered on paper (c. 1708)
  • Privy Councillor’s gold embroidered coat
  • Queen Anne and Jacobean bedspreads
  • Elizabethan and petit point Stuart panels
  • Victorian Ladies handwork
  • Work influenced by William Morris
  • The earliest piece of embroidery in the collection is dated c.1580
  • There is also a range of embellished costume pieces and accessories

  Lace

  Over 8,000 pieces of machine and handmade lace including Bobbin Lace, needle lace knitted, tambour, crochet, tatting and netting lace.

  Some types of lace of note:

  • Binche
  • Mechlin
  • Venetian gros point
  • Alencon / Argentan
  • Genoese
  • Milanese
  • Honiton
  • Bedfordshire
  • Buckinghamshire
  • Maltese
  • Flemish

  Textiles

  Including 18th, 19th and 20th century English print, batik and block print samples, William Morris prints and design, paisley prints and shawls, bedspreads, quilts and table linens, knitting, weaving, brocade, feltwork, and pieces from across Europe, Asian, Africa, and the Americas.

  Key examples include:

  • Pre-1880 hand blocked samples from local company, Robert Hindle Co.
  • L’animal dans le decoration’ – French portfolio sheet c.1898
  • Lewis F Day prints
  • Thomas and Elizabeth Wardle Leek embroidery over print c. 1900
  • 1930’s paisley cone dress print
  • A collection of Footprints Studio printing blocks from the mid-19th century to 1930s
  • 1950s plain weave spun rayon samples
  • 1950s English jacquard weaving
  • 1920s Hungarian felted runner
  • 1930 felt applique belt figures ice skating
  • Hand knitted apron c. 1800
  • 1910 handmade knitted stocking from Italy
  • 1940s single ply hand knitted wool vest
  • 1950s machine knitted slipper socks

  Costume

  For men, women and children, including bags, purses, collars, wedding garments, Kimonos and Obi, Chinese costume, shoes and hats with relevant surface decoration relating to the core collection.

  Key examples include:

  • A collection of 170 muslin dresses to 1920s printed chiffon dresses
  • White muslin with woven check and lilac rosebud print c.1852
  • Cream taffeta print skirt with train c 1870
  • Grey alpaca wedding dress c. 1880
  • Black and white houndstooth wool jacket and skirt with velvet trimming c 1905
  • Black crepe de chine and net dress decorated with bugle beads and embroidered details c. 1925

  Gawthorpe Textiles Collection also collects:

  • International pieces of textiles to reflect the diversity and breadth of stitching and other  techniques.
  • Tools that relate to the creation and production of handmade textiles and patterns with cultural or historical significance.
  • Contemporary pieces of textiles of outstanding quality that reflect new, innovative techniques or advances in textile production that relate to the core collection.
  • Significant items of costume, decorative arts and ephemera related to the Shuttleworth family always taking into consideration use, access and storage and how items relate to the core collection.
  • A discreet resource collection for handling, outreach and education that relates to the core collection.

  Source: Collection development policy

  Date: 2017

  Licence: CC BY-NC